Post by SVG on May 8, 2012 12:12:16 GMT -6
Hey guys I finally swapped my pulley after near catastrophic events. With good guidance from Chris I felt it was time. So being that most HB write UPS online have either the radiator removed it is not necessary.
And I am aware about my spelling and grammar I am a truck driver not an astro psychiatrist lol I would like to take the time and thank Chris, Ricardo and Zack for their input and help.
Tools required:
24mm socket, ratchet and or breaker bar (my bolt was lose, it came off with a small ratchet)
Torque wrench, balancer installer, and a removing tool
I used a 3/4in drive snap on torque wrench as you can see the size difference of a regular 1/2in drive
And a harmonic balancer either stock or after market. I used a powerbond underdrive from Scoggin Dickey. And some thread locker and grease.
After the car is safely lifted, either on ramps or using a jack and stands. And transmission in 4th gear, parking brake fully engaged. Remove the belts, and I went under the car to remove the bolt, again I repeat my bolt was already loose. I removed the bolt and installed a modified stock bolt with the flat thing cut off with a plasma cutter. And a 5/16th hole drilled in the middle. I do not have a picture of said bolt.
So next the tool I used to remove the balancer has to be mounted on the inner flanges of the balancer. It comes with variable length 5/16th rods that sit flush on that modified bolt. This way the balancer comes off without pulling and resetting the stock bolt. That ancient method might might cause galling to the threads in the crank, and a real painful headache.
Using a 3/4 wrench or socket ratchet combo, tighten the puller clock wise the balancer will come out with minimal effort.
After the balancer comes off, I installed a threaded rod ( lol rod) them grease the poo out of the cranks snout (lol crank lol) sorry no pics.
After the crank is all lubed up (lol) on comes the new balancer and make sure its seated properly (thanks Chris) use your install tool mine was a rod and some flat washers and a nut
Tighten the install tool, as you tighten the balancer starts receding on to the crank. After a few turns the tool can't go further in and my balancer being after market will either not sit in all the way. I am open to verification on this.
So after I removed the installer I put some thread locker on to the sdpc bolt and torqued it to 240ftlbs using the torque wrench
I've heard some of you how hard it is to tighten the bolt, so it only tool one and a half quarter turns from the water pump to near the abs module. To click, so I was skeptical and kept trying to tighten it more. It got to a point that the rear wheels tried turning as I was tightening. Although the belts lined up according to ricardo its seated. So that's good enough for me
Here is the final shot
And I am aware about my spelling and grammar I am a truck driver not an astro psychiatrist lol I would like to take the time and thank Chris, Ricardo and Zack for their input and help.
Tools required:
24mm socket, ratchet and or breaker bar (my bolt was lose, it came off with a small ratchet)
Torque wrench, balancer installer, and a removing tool
I used a 3/4in drive snap on torque wrench as you can see the size difference of a regular 1/2in drive
And a harmonic balancer either stock or after market. I used a powerbond underdrive from Scoggin Dickey. And some thread locker and grease.
After the car is safely lifted, either on ramps or using a jack and stands. And transmission in 4th gear, parking brake fully engaged. Remove the belts, and I went under the car to remove the bolt, again I repeat my bolt was already loose. I removed the bolt and installed a modified stock bolt with the flat thing cut off with a plasma cutter. And a 5/16th hole drilled in the middle. I do not have a picture of said bolt.
So next the tool I used to remove the balancer has to be mounted on the inner flanges of the balancer. It comes with variable length 5/16th rods that sit flush on that modified bolt. This way the balancer comes off without pulling and resetting the stock bolt. That ancient method might might cause galling to the threads in the crank, and a real painful headache.
Using a 3/4 wrench or socket ratchet combo, tighten the puller clock wise the balancer will come out with minimal effort.
After the balancer comes off, I installed a threaded rod ( lol rod) them grease the poo out of the cranks snout (lol crank lol) sorry no pics.
After the crank is all lubed up (lol) on comes the new balancer and make sure its seated properly (thanks Chris) use your install tool mine was a rod and some flat washers and a nut
Tighten the install tool, as you tighten the balancer starts receding on to the crank. After a few turns the tool can't go further in and my balancer being after market will either not sit in all the way. I am open to verification on this.
So after I removed the installer I put some thread locker on to the sdpc bolt and torqued it to 240ftlbs using the torque wrench
I've heard some of you how hard it is to tighten the bolt, so it only tool one and a half quarter turns from the water pump to near the abs module. To click, so I was skeptical and kept trying to tighten it more. It got to a point that the rear wheels tried turning as I was tightening. Although the belts lined up according to ricardo its seated. So that's good enough for me
Here is the final shot